"East Bay Grille has great view, and best of all, great food"

For more than 30 years, McGrath's was an institution on the Plymouth waterfront, attracting locals and tourists alike, many of whom came by the busload for a taste of typical New England. Lobster, steamers, fried clams and chowder flew out of the kitchen faster than a speeding bivalve, and it was a sad day when the doors finally closed.

Then Tim Colton of the Fours in Quincy and Paul Barbato of Clancy's on the Cape teamed up and the renovations began.

The doors of the East Bay Grille opened in April 1999, and people flocked in to assess the changes. The transformation was impressive, too. Trussed ceilings painted a soft cream color and half models and sculling oars on the walls give it the feel of a well-heeled boathouse. Booths are a soothing hunter green, the tables and chairs are a warm teak, and plenty of window seating provides a million-dollar view of the harbor. The winning combination of ambiance, service and food has attracted a loyal clientele.

The appetizers, many of which sound like they could be meals in themselves, range from $6.95 for chicken wings or calamari to $9.95 for Shrimp Diane or a smoked salmon Napolean. At $7.95, the baby back ribs are a filling choice, and the grande nachos are large enough to stop one person in his or her tracks. The evening we were there, the appetizer special was tempura fried shrimp with a sweet and sour dipping sauce ($8.95).

There must have been 10 respectably sized shrimp on the plate, hot, crisp, and light, but the sauce, though tasty, was incongruously filled with chunks of green pepper.

Dinner entrees range from $14.95 for baked schrod to $25.95 for a 24-ounce porterhouse steak, with most offerings falling in the $16 to $18 range.

The menu is somewhat limited, and except for the chowder, there's not a clam in sight, but you don't need to be a fish lover to find something suitable, as they offer a few Italian dishes and a couple of choice beef dishes. In addition, the specials the evening we were there included baked stuffed lobster and prime rib.

My husband chose the prime rib ($18.95), medium rare with a baked potato. The first piece to come out was closer to medium well, but the waitress quickly whisked it away, returning promptly with another cut that looked just right. We found the texture a bit grainy, but tasty nonetheless, and enough to feed a small Boy Scout troop.

I was in the mood for something rich, and the Lazy Lobster Pie ($19.95) sounded perfect. A light sherried cream sauce bathed big chunks of lobster meat topped with buttery bread crumbs, and though some of the lobster seemed a bit chewy, the overall flavor was so delicious that I kept eating long after I should have stopped.

The Kendall Jackson chardonnay ($6.50 for a glass), bright and acidic, was a great foil to the sweetness of the seafood.

As I've freely admitted, we ate more than we should have, but that didn't stop the dessert dissertation from taking place. I was able to find room for a demure cup of grapenut custard pudding ($2.50). Cool, smooth and satisfying, it was topped with a generous helping of homemade whipped cream and drizzled with caramel sauce.

It's pretty obvious that someone in the kitchen has an industrial-sized sweet tooth, as the desserts are mammoth, and for the most part, a chocolate lovers dream. The chocolate cake that my husband chose ($5.95) was one of the richest, densest desserts he's enjoyed in quite a while, and so enormous that even a chocoholic like him was forced to leave some on the plate.

Lunch is served daily as well, with an assortment of sandwiches, salads and light meals, and it's probably the best time to appreciate the view. In addition, a seat at the bar on Friday or Saturday nights come with the extra treat of live music. So the next time you're in the mood for a room with a view, do consider the East Bay Grille.